Remarkable wines coming from Chile’s Elqui Valley

Long known for table grapes and papayas, as well as Pisco, Chile’s distinctive wine-based spirit, the Elqui Valley is making a name for itself with high-quality red wines.

As in neighbouring Argentina, just a stone’s throw across the Andes, the key to quality is altitude. At these latitudes, the climate would be semi-tropical at sea level, but when vineyards are planted high in the Andean foothills at elevations of up to 2,000 metres, the combination of intense sunshine, with very cool nights, produces grapes that are ripe, but with good acidity and incredibly vibrant fruit character.

In the Elqui Valley, the cool climate is bringing out remarkably characterful qualities in red varieties, especially Syrah. This week’s reviews include an interesting Syrah Carmenere blend from Falernia, one of the two prominent Elqui wineries.

Vineyards are also being planted at Chile’s other extreme, Chilean Patagonia. It is really too soon to tell whether viticulture in this improbably cool, damp region will be another success story. That chapter has yet to be written.
REVIEWS

Quinta Paco de Teixeiro 2009, Douro Branco, Portugal, 11.5 per cent, $14.99 (Cristall & Luckett, Sunnyside Mall, Bedford): This is another example of the quality to be found in Portugal’s native grape varieties these days. Displays fragrant floral and ripe yellow fruits on the nose with yellow pear, cantaloupe and suggestions of citrus and honey on the palate. Pleasantly light on alcohol but quite full-flavoured.

Junta Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Curico Valley, Chile, 14 per cent, $15.99 (Cristall & Luckett): Classic Chilean aromatic Cabernet intensity with black currant, leafy herbal and minty overtones and atypical scent of blueberries. Fruit on the palate is more suggestive of blackberries, though, with firm tannins, dark chocolate and a hint of mocha. With good weight, velvety texture and well-integrated finish, this is a fine, moderately complex wine and an excellent value.

Falernia Carmenere Syrah Reserva 2007, Elqui Valley, Chile, 14.5 per cent, $16.99 (Cristall & Luckett): Bouquet is quite developed, with interesting smoky, red berry fruit, white pepper and background minty herbal notes. Sweet ripe red berry, rich milk chocolate and supple tannins on mid-palate transition into a long, complex succulently fruity, spicy and deftly oaked finish. The Carmenere Syrah blend works brilliantly in illustrating the distinctive terroir of the region.

BARGAINS

Lindemans Cawarra Semillon Chardonnay 2009, Southeastern Australia, 12 per cent, $10.99 (NSLC general list): Always a reliable standby on the general list, this one shows grapefruit citrus character on the nose, with pineapple and citrus fruit flavours, refreshing acidity, light mineral and pleasant fruitiness on the finish.

Pure Evil Chardonnay 2008, South Australia, 14.5 per cent, $12.99 (sale price) (Cristall & Luckett): Mellow, lightly buttery, with citrus and tropical fruit aromatics and generously ripe citrus and tropical fruit in the mouth, finishing with buttery vanilla and balancing acidity. Holds the high alcohol very well.

Boeri 2009, Dolcetto Monferrato DOC, Italy, 13 per cent, $12.99 (sale price) (Cristall & Luckett): The huge Monferrato region is responsible for about half of Piedmont’s entire wine production. The Dolcetto grape makes wines with good depth of fruit and very pleasant to drink while young. This one shows vibrant dark ruby colour with equally lively, enticingly ripe dark berry and plum scents with a pinch of spice and a whiff of vanilla. In the mouth, fleshy ripe berry flavours contrast with black cherry bitterness, light tannic grip and earthy overtones. Not overly complex, but a great match for pizza, tomato-based pastas and grilled meats.

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